STAGE 22 - ASTORGA to RABANAL DEL CAMINO

 This is one of my favorite stretches of the Camino. We walk through beautiful landscape that is upward and hilly. The final destination, Rabanal del Camino, is a lovely little town made up of stone homes that are typical of the region known as the Maragatería. This region gained its name from the maragatos who were teamsters that moved product around in their wagons. There is music, costumes, food, and architecture that are particular to the culture. Here are some sights...

Note the snow on the mountains in the distance.

This is the entrance to the city of Santa Catalina de Somoza.

Here are the typical constructions. These structures are old but constantly rehabilitated. Some of them are beautifully reformed like this one in Santa Catalina de Somoza.

Santa Catalina de Somoza is home to the country's well-known maragatero. His name was Aquilino Pastor Alonso who during his lifetime promoted the maragato culture, music, and traditions. He was a tailor by profession and created maragato costumes, even for the King of Spain. His musical influence extended throughout Spain and Europe. As a musician he would play the regional flute and drum. He died in 1991 at the age of 101. If you want to hear his music, here is a link: 

Further on down the road...

Often along the road there are these cruceiros. This is one that I hadn't seen before at the town of El Ganso. Most of them will have a crucified Christ on one side and a representation of the Virgin and Child on the other. This one is no exception EXCEPT the Mother and Child version here is of Mary dressed as a pilgrim!

Shortly before arriving in Rabanal we came across a lady we had met in 2022. She sets up a stand along the Camino where she sells handcrafted, crocheted pilgrim dolls. In 2022 Seth and I bought two  and hung them on our backpacks (below).

When Lizzy did the Camino with us in 2023 the lady wasn't there. Happily, this year we got to the point where her stand was and to our surprise, there she was! So, we bought one for Lizzy...

As you enter Rabanal del Camino you walk past the Ermita de la Vera Cruz (18th century).

Rabanal del Camino is the home of a Benedictine Monastery. In 2023 I met Fray Cassian (a German monk) who has as one of his duties to attend to the monastery's gift shop and to greet pilgrims. Again this year we visited with him. In between visits from pilgrims he dedicates his time to making rosaries and other crafts that they sell. Here he is showing one of his pieces...

He is such a lovely person and we had some delightful conversations.

The little church that is tied to the monastery has masses where pilgrims are blessed with health and safety. It is the Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción (12th century) built in the Romanesque style. It has a simple single barreled nave and apse.

Below is a view of Rabanal del Camino as we are leaving on our way to Acebo de San Miguel.