RONCESVALLES - The Journey Begins

 Welcome to Roncesvalles! Here is where most of the Spanish pilgrims begin their journey along the Camino de Santiago. The bravehearted souls will begin in Saint Jean Pied de Port on the French side of the Pyrenees tackling the steep climb to the top of the mountains before descending the 10 kilometers into Roncesvalles.

Roncesvalles has a long history dating back to the 8th century when Charlemagne led his troops over the mountains into Spain after having a dream where Saint James appeared to him and called him to go and protect his tomb from the invading Moors. It is in this vecinity that a battle took place where Roland, the king's nephew, fought the Moors and where he lost his life. It is said that nearby is a stone that he split in half with his sword (he named Durandal), as he attempted to destroy it rather than let it fall into enemy hands. In the Chronicle of Pseudo-Turpini (a text from the 12th century), the author records Roldan praising his sword and its virtues:

"He had named it Durandal, which means “giver of strong blows” or “it strongly strikes the Saracen,” since it can never be broken. The arm of the one who uses this sword will fail long before the sword itself will. Unsheathing it and holding it in his hand, Roland cried with a voice broken by tears as he looked upon it.

'Oh, most beautiful sword, of a brilliance that never tarnishes, of perfect proportions and unbreakable strength! You have the whitest ivory handle, the most splendid cross of gold and golden exterior. You are adorned with a beryl pommel and engraved with the most wonderful letters of the great name of God, the alpha and the omega. Your sharp tip is always just and directed by God’s virtue. Who next will make use of your strength? Who will hold you next? Who will carry you as your owner? Whoever possesses you will not be vanquished, will not be knocked down, will not show fear in the face of his enemies, will not become terrified by fantasies, but will always trust in God’s protection and will be surrounded by divine assistance. ... You carry out the justice of God, tearing from their owner’s body the foot and the hand accustomed to robbing. ... Oh, happiest of swords, with the swiftest of thrusts, incomparable in both the past and the future! He who made you had never made one like you before and has never since. No one who was ever wounded by you has survived! How hurt I would be to know that you wound up in the hands of a coward or a heartless person...!” Fearing that it would fall into the hands of the Saracens, Roland struck it three times against the marble boulder, hoping to destroy it. But what happened next? The rock split into two chunks from top to bottom, leaving the double-edged sword completely intact."

(Chronicle of Pseudo-Turpin, edition and translation by Kevin R. Poole)

 

The town is home to a beautiful Gothic church, the Real Colegiata-Iglesia de Santa María de Orreaga. It dates back to the 13th century under the reign of Sancho VII, the Brave, as a way station for pilgrims crossing over the mountains. In a room off the cloister is the tombs of Sancho VII and his wife Clemencia. Located in the stained-glass santuary is the Virgen de Orreaga found under a beautify baldaquin. Every evening the prior celebrates a mass where pilgrims receive a blessing in the several languages recorded to be present that day.

The apse and baldaquin of the church

Two panels right of the apse: Saint Fermín and Saint Veremundus

Two panels to the left of the apse: Saint Augustine and Saint Michael, Archangel

The Virgen of Orreaga (Roncesvalles)

Rose window on the West Wall with view of the triforium

Triforium (with the arched windows) and Clerestory (with the rose windows)