STAGE 1 - RONCESVALLES to ZUBIRI

 Today we set out on the first 14 mile stretch of the Camino. As we were leaving Jannette noticed that the little Iglesia de Santiago (that we have not seen open on our two previous trips) was wide open. We zipped across the road and went inside. We weren't disappointed. The building dates from the 13th century an follows a typical Gothic style. The interior is a single nave with three windows covered in thinly cut marble that allows a faint flow of white to pierce into the space. At the head of the nave stands a carved image of Saint James. It was truly a beautiful experience to step into this small, unassuming space. 

The Iglesia de Santiago (Roncesvalles)

Here are some of the places and things that we experienced along the way...

We found it very strange to walk through leafless forests. It was a different sort of beauty that we experienced; one that reminds one of the ever-present cycle of life.

About 20 minutes walk outside of Roncesvalles is The Cross of Roland. The original cross was built in this area in the 15th century. It disappeared sometime in the 18th century and was rebuilt in 2006. The cross commemorates the death of Roland, but more importantly it commemorates the legacy of the reconquest under that hand of Charlemagne and Roland.

Next to the cross is this bench with the word Sorginaritzaga, also known as the Robedal de las Brujas (Oak Grove of the Witches). It was believed that in this forests witches would gather in their covens and perform spells and other unsavory acts as part of their ritual. It is said that nine witches were burned in this forest. The Cross of Roland was placed here to bless and purify these woods.

Here is Jannette emerging from these woods unscathed!

This is the Iglesia de San Nicolás de Bari in Auritz-Burguete. The original structure dates from around 1104 but due to several fires over the years it has been reconstructed several times. The present church dates from 1945 and 1968. Little remains of the original Medieval structure but the church's presence is testimony to the hope that resides in those who go there to worship.

This is the main street of Auritz-Burguete. Most of the small towns along this portion of the Camino date from the middle ages. Towns like this one were called "pueblos de camino" and constituted single-deep constructions that ran parallel to the trail. Even today few homes or business stand outside this confined space.

As you leave the trail that runs through towns on to paths that go across the countryside that is crisscrossed with small streams you will come across bridges. Some are well constructed plank bridges while others are simply large stones that have been moved into place to form the crossing.

The views are breathtaking as you wander along a trail bordered by mountains on everyside.

The path also meanders through forest...

Or through naturally formed arcades of trees and bushes.

I had stopped to get a picture of Bizkarreta-Gerendiain when this dog jumped up on the wall in front of me and sat their posing for a picture. I got the sense that he was a celebrity in the town!

As you begin the descent from Mount Erro into Zubiri you must navigate these rocky paths. Some of the ruts are upwards of two-feet deep. This is when having walking sticks come in handy.

Just before you cross the bridge into Zubiri you come across this building. Some scholars have suspected that this structure may sit on the site of a medieval Leprosorium where pilgrims or others diagnosed with leprosy were treated, cared for and housed. Hospitals like this one would have been common in the middle ages and were most often managed by monks from a nearby monastery.

Below is the Arga River.

The bridge you cross into Zubiri is called Puente de la Rabia (Rabid Bridge). The story is that in the 11th century men began construction on a bridge to facilitate the passage of pilgrims and other across the Arga River. According to local lore, the bricklayers were have difficulties laying the foundation for the central column around which the entire structure would be built. The quickly began the process of excavating where the column was to be situated and came upon a tomb and claimed it be that of Santa Quiteria, the patron saint of rabies. The bridge was finished (supposedly with the remains of the saint still below the middle column). A tradition arose that if a local farmer had an animal suffering from rabies he would take the animal across the bridge and it would be cured.