STAGE 24 - ACEBO DE SAN MIGUEL to PONFERRADA

 Today was a pretty good day. We still had a lot of downhill, rocky path to cover, but it wasn't as difficult as the day before. It was a smart move to split the stage into two parts rather than what we did in 2022 and 2023 when we did the entire 20 miles in one fail swoop. We were able to arrive in Ponferrada, eat a nice meal, get cleaned up, rest and then go out to the nearby Templar Castle and wander around. Afterwards, a visit to an ice cream shop and now settling in for the evening. 

Here is what we saw along the way. Again, I focused a lot on flowers. There are plants flowering that we haven't seen before since we are here early in the season.

The morning greeted us with a beautiful sunrise. Jannette paused and sang her daily song. It was a great combination of sight and sound.

Here are some of the flowers that I noticed along the way...

Common Milkwort

Hairy Thorny Broom

Dead-Nettles

Angel's Tears

Saxifrage

French Lavender

Navelwort

Short-leaved Stonecrop

Primrose (there were about 30 patches of this size in this one area)

Green Alkanet

White Campion

Fumaria

Poppies

Gum Rockrose (These grow in large bushes all over the mountains along the Camino. They were just starting to bloom. It appears that the flower has a short span before it sheds its petals. Below is a picture of them along a hillside)

Buttercups

Common Bugloss

Corsican Stonecrop

Purple Mistress

Ribwort Plantain

The first town that we came to after leaving Acebo de San Miguel is Riego de Ambró. The picture below shows a little about the typical construction of homes in this area known as El Bierzo.

We were thrilled to find this hermitage open (Ermita de San Sebastián). We were greeted by a very nice lady sitting patiently inside waiting for pilgrims to pass by.

A short distance further is the Camino sign that points you to another difficult stretch of the Camino.

As you can see, we are again trudging over rocky outcroppings. However, there is a very interesting characteristic of this portion of the Camino.  You will notice that the path appears more like an ancient road with well sculpted sides, carefully cobbled together stones and...

What appeared to be wheel ruts running in parallel lines...

Along the Camino you can be walking on a Roman road, over a Medieval bridge, or along an ancient footpath and never realize it.

Finally we made it down out of the mountains and off that crazy, rocky path into Molinaseca. The origin of the town's name is a combination of two Latin words: molinum that means "molinos" or "mills" and siccum that means "secos" or "dry." Certainly, the towns name is a reflection of the primary industry involving the milling or grinding of wheat into flour dedicated to service to the monasteries. Though its products formed a foundation for the town's economy, it was the development of the Camino de Santiago that accelerated its growth during the 12th century. At that time churches, hostels and hospitals for pilgrims began to rise along the calle Real that runs from the Puente del Peregrino through Molinaseca. During this period of increased economic growth the town saw not only the development of agriculture, livestock and artisan trades, but also more traditional professions including tailor, shoemakers, carpenters, blacksmiths.

To enter the town you must cross a Roman bridge or "Puente del Peregrino" that spans the Meruelo River. I students have enjoyed this spot in the past because the community has constructed a "fluvial swimming pool" that is part of the river. In 2022 and 2023, after a long, hot day of walking the students have paused here for a dip before moving on.

Near the bridge is the Iglesia de San Nicolás de Bari

After passing through Molinaseca we set out for Ponferrada. Along the way we passed through Campo, a small agricultural community.

It has very picturesque streets that transport you back to previous centuries.

A view of the River Boeza that passes near Ponferrada.

After reaching our hotel we went to get something to eat at one of the quirkiest places I have seen so far along the Camino. The interior looked like an the owner had visited every flea market in the area and collected odd paraphernalia.

Our lunch was across the street from the Templar Castle that is the showcase of Ponferrada.

(exterior)

(interior)

The castle reflects several periods of construction. The Knights Templar arrive at the castle in 1178 with the task of protecting the "Pons Ferrata" (located in Villafranca del Bierzo) and the pilgrims who traveled through the area. During their stay they reinforced the walls and maintained a convent, living spaces ("pallozas"), gardens, and other essential industry. Of these buildings only a few ruins exist today. 

The Knight's Templar abandoned the castle after the dissolution of their order in 1312. 

From the 14th century through to the 16th century saw several renovations and additions to the original castle. The "Old Castle" (next two pictures) was built and expanded from the 14th to the 16th centuries.

Inside the "Old Castle" were some nicely preserved barrel-vaulted ceilings and this window seating area (with Jannette sitting in quiet contemplation).

In the 15th century the Conde de Lemos built the "Palacio Nuevo" that today houses the "Templum Libri," a library for researchers into the Middle Ages. It has a beautiful collection of manuscripts. The existing structure has been upgraded to a more modern building (not pictured).

The castle's entrance and towers also date from that 15th century.

Later on in the early evening Jannette and I walked along the Sil River that runs below the Castle. Here is what it looks like from that angle...

When I stopped to take this picture a gentleman came up to us. He told us that wild boar from the nearby hills often run along the paths that crisscross the vegetated area below the castle. He then pulled out his phone and showed us a picture. Sure enough! There was a huge wild boar. Needless to say, that conversation dissuaded us from taking a stroll in that area.

On our way to get some ice cream (because you need to spoil yourself once in a while), we passed this building with a huge wisteria growing on it. It was beautiful.