STAGE 18 - BERCIANOS DEL REAL CAMINO to MANSILLA DE LAS MULAS

So far, if I had to choose the most monotonous stretch of the Camino it would probably be this stage from Bercianos to Mansilla. The path follows a small secondary road with little changes in the geography (e.g., flat farmland). The stretch is over nearly 17 miles with only two small towns along the way. No bathrooms. No food. Here and there a few cows, farmer in their fields tilling the ground, and a little old man walking down the middle of the road whose walking strides were only about eight inches! He clearly knew where he was and where he was going. Jannette and I decided that he was really Saint James inspecting the way (ha, ha, ha). We did find beauty in the landscape...

Along these long stretches across the meseta central (central plains) trees have been planted along the Camino to provide shade, especially during late spring and summer when the temperatures can reach 100 degrees.

One of Jannette's daily activities is to wait until there aren't any pilgrims around, pause, and sing a hymn.. She will do this several times a day. this was a particularly beautiful moment at sunrise looking back towards Bercianos del Real Camino.

The clouds in the distance are covering the mountain range.

In this man-made forest was a herd of cows. Perhaps an idyllic world.

A lot of fields were being tilled in preparation for the growing season. Also, see those clouds in the distance? They are going to eventually move in over us with winds (up to 35 miles per hour) and rain!

The country boy came out in me when we passed by this farmer who was plowing his field. The smell of freshly cultivated soil was overwhelming and the color a rich red. I couldn't help stepping out into the field and taking a handful of soil in my hand. I love the contact with the earth. 

Here comes the rain! This has been the third rainiest March registered in Spain. With all the rain the rivers and canals (like the one above) have been running higher. And, there are those pesky clouds that are going to bring rain and wind on us.

One of the political divisions in Spain is Castilla-León. There are some on both sides of this geographic designation who dislike the other. Along the Camino you will see signs where the word "Castilla" has been painted over; and others where the word "León" has been eliminated. Here is a graffitied building where someone has written "León solo" (Only León). This sense of "nationalism" sometimes creates tensions.

I believe in tender mercies and miracles. First, We were about two miles from Mansilla de las Mulas (our destination). My back was aching and my left knee was "not happy"! Jannette had stopped to change her jacket and I had walked a few feet ahead. When I stopped I leaned on a tree and looking down I saw this little piece of tree bark on the ground and I noticed that there was this little heart on it. It was smaller than a dime. I don't know what formed it, but there it was. It gave me a boost to move forward. A little farther down the path a couple from the Netherlands joined us. We talked and talked and talked. We talked about their country. We talked about their visit to Utah and Arizona. We talked about architecture. Next thing I knew we were a half a block from our hotel. It was a wonderful moment to meet, learn, and connect with other pilgrims.

This morning Jannette and I prayed that we would have a good day and be able to complete this stage well and safely. Prayers are answered.