STAGE 27 - O CEBREIRO to TRIACASTELA

WE WOKE UP TO SNOW!!!

Shortly after we arrived in O Cebreiro it started to rain and rain and rain and rain. Hard. At dinner I was talking to the host and she told me that it was going to snow the next day. Frankly, I kind of scoffed to myself because the weather forecast only called for some rain. Lesson learned: Do not trust forecasts! This is what we saw when we stepped out of the hotel the next morning...

 

We had dressed warmly but did not expect it to be sooooo cold. Biting cold. We headed out and the weather didn't get better. In fact, I think that it got worse...

From O Cebreiro there was a climb and then a descent and then a significant number of hills.

 

The climb to the Alto de San Roque was challenging, especially with the weather.

The most strenuous part of the trail was the steep hike up to the Alto del Poyo. It was cold, foggy, and challenging. I used the technique of pacing off 100 steps and pausing. I counted 500 steps! From the top on it was a manageable descent towards Triacastela. At about mile 9 it started to give signs of clearing. It did for a moment and the sun peeked out for a second. We were finally moving below the fog/clouds and there was hope that we would have a nice final 4 plus miles into Triacastela. 

(That is Triacastela nestled in the valley)

Here come the clouds...

But no chance. The snow turned to a light, persistent rain. That was fine until we came to the spots along the path where farmers like to use the Camino to move their tractors from one field to another. Our shoes got very muddy and we were slipping and sliding a lot. Thankfully, we made it to solid ground and into Triacastela.

On the way in to Triacastela you pass through Ramil with its 850 year old chestnut tree. It is known as the Centenarian Chestnut. Its perimeter is 28 feet and its diameter is 9 feet. It is inspiring to stand there and contemplate the history that it has "witnessed" as pilgrims have passed it on their way to Santiago de Compostela.

(Photo from a previous trip; the one we saw today was leafless)

PS - Just looked out the window and it is raining "cats and dogs"!!!! Oh, happy day (NOT).