STAGE 21 - HOSPITAL DE óRBIGO to ASTORGA

WELCOME TO THE CHOCOLATE CAPITAL OF SPAIN! One of the products that puts Astorga on the map was its significant chocolate production. In fact, Astorga has a Chocolate Museum where you can learn about the beginnings of the industry, how to make chocolate, and then taste it! Earlier in our trip when we were with the students from the Winter 2025 program, we brought them to Astorga and we visited the museum.  Even on the sides of buildings they tout their chocolate heritage. I will also admit, their chocolate is extraordinary. Sadly, there was no room in our luggage to take any home so we just had to eat it there!

From Hospital de Orbigo to Astorga, we had a great hike today. It was a short stretch over much more pleasant landscape. Here is what we experienced...

This area is still mostly agricultural. We passed several tractors with their plows attached and ready to get the fields ready for seeding.

The terrain gets more hilly with little towns nestled here and there.

Over the last few days we have been passed by groups of youth. Most of them are walking a few stages and then returning home. Today a group caught up with us and passed us. They were very friendly, saying as they passed "Buen Camino." We talked to their leader who explained that he is a religion teacher in their school. We had a really wonderful conversation about faith and feeling the Spirit in our lives. When we got to the little town these youth were having a snack. Soon they caught up with us and disappeared into the distance.

At the top of one of the hills was this "memorial" with crosses of different sizes and types. There is also this very interesting "pilgrim" figure. He is made up of things that past pilgrims have donated to its construction.

I have a similar picture from our pilgrimage in 2023. I attempted to paint it but it is so hard to capture the color of the ground and the variety of greens. Gratefully, this crossroad has a sign that indicates the direction we should take. At this moment I paused to consider the importance of direction when we come to crossroads in our life. The restored Gospel provides the instructions that we need. We just need to pause, look, and follow the spiritual "arrows."

At what might be considered the top of the hill before descending into Astorga there is this Oasis. A very funny older guy has this building where he provides pilgrims with shade, places to sit, food, and conversation. He only asks for a donation of what you consider the worth of what you eat. It is an interesting experience.

Below is the point where you first get a glimpse of Astorga... We are still about 3 miles out. We have to go down the hill, across the valley and then back up to the city.

At the bottom of the hill is this fountain. Potable water comes out from the a spout next to the statue. Water also comes out of the bottle and drains into the pilgrim's mouth.

On the edge of Astorga is this sign greeting pilgrims.

Just after passing this point we crossed a little bridge...

There was a lady standing nearby talking to another pilgrim. She spoke very proudly of this bridge and its Roman heritage. Bridges like this are all along the way. Some are small while others are large and magnificent. What one learns is that no matter their size or location, a bridge is like the solution to obstacles in our path. They appear when we need them and help us move forward.

Astorga was a Roman town named Asturica Augusta. It was established by Octavian in 14 BC. The original Roman walls were reinforced and improved in 1242 by Bishop Nuño (photo below from a previous visit to Astorga). Below is a view of the Gaudi Palace and the tower of the Cathedral.

According to documents, the first Christian bishopric was established in 254, making this the most remote Christian community on the Peninsula. A tradition that dates from the 17th century states that Saint Ephrem, a disciple of Saint James (Santiago), was the first bishop of the Dioceses.

There are two buildings that stand out on the Astorgan skyline: 1) the Gaudí Palace; and 2) the Catedral de Astorga.

The Palace was built in granite from the Bierzo, one of the regions of the diocese of Astorga. It replaced the old Episcopal Palace which burned down in 1886. The previous building was the home and administrative office for the diocese. After the fire, Juan Bautista Grau, the bishop at the time, approached Gaudí to carry out the project of designing the new residence. The palace was never used as a residence. It is now home to the Museum of the Camino.

The other building is the Catedral de Santa María de Astorga. The foundation of the cathedral dates to 1069 with a Romanesque structure with its completion sometime in the 13th century. Construction on the present structure began in 1471 and continued with expansions and improvements including Renaissance chapels, and the Baroque façade.

A little aside: For years I have wanted to go into this little church located next to the Cathedral (the one with the tower), but it has always been closed when I passed. After we left the Cathedral on our way back to our hotel I noticed that it was open and joyfully went in. This is the Iglesia de Santa Marta, the patron saint of Astorga. Next to this church is the Celda de las Emparedadas, a convent of sorts from the Middle Ages where women who were given to mystic behavior would isolate themselves from the world and dedicate their time to prayer, fasting, and contemplation.

Inside the church is this altarpiece dedicated to the saint. Jannette and I realized after leaving the church that it had been opened for mass. There was a stream of older citizens (some that had been waiting in the little park next door and most in wheel chairs) heading for the church.

One last experience that was very touching. Jannette and I were walking back to our hotel along a rather quiet, off-the-beaten-path street. Suddenly, a older gentleman, wearing his housecoat, came out of a door and invited us in to see his collection of wood carvings. He promised us that nothing was for sale, he just wanted us to see his work. We went in and found a little treasure of folk art. We had wonderful visit with him. Another one of those treasured moments...

And... walking out of town there is this concrete poem on the side of a church. The foundation of the poem are the words "Guia Señor mi Camino" (running forward and backward on the center horizontal and vertical lines)

This is all for now. The next adventure is forthcoming.