CAMINO TO THE SEA - DAY 3: SANTA MARIñA TO DUMBRíA
Today started out a little rough. It was cloudy with this very fine mist coming at us for about an hour. I was really my fault that I hadn't prepared better. The weather report called for clouds but no rain, so I didn't bring a poncho or rain slicker. Eventually it stopped being wet and the day proceeded along well. We crossed some really spectacular countryside with a lot of mild uphills and downhills. What was particularly great (for us) was that there were very few people along the way so we had some nice quiet time with nature. First, I must tell you that we stayed at a lovely rural B&B for two nights, Casa do Folgo. The owner who fed us and shuttled us to starting points along the path is Angeles. She is an amazing cook and perfect hostess.
Here are some of the things that we did and saw...
Having grown up on a dairy farm I have always loved fields and the earth. Along the way I have taken note of the land in all of its varieties. As we were walking along this stretch we came on this field of freshly cut grass (that is eventually bundled and turned in silage for the dairies that are in abundance in the area).
We turned this one corner and what should come into sight but a newly tilled field with the darkest, richest soil I have ever seen. It was so rich that you could smell its freshness wafting through the air. I was in seventh heaven! (and what you see is the real color of the soil; no enhancement here).
From a little higher up the mountain we got a better view of the valley and the fields that were being cultivated in preparation for planting.
From here we climb more...
View from Mount Arra.
Since coming to this part of Galicia I have become fascinated (obsessed) with the stone hórreos. Here are some more that I saw along the way. Some are huge while others look like little houses on stilts.
Churches are also interesting events. The ones that we have seen along the way are much like the one below with a small chapel and surrounded by above-ground crypts. We haven't seen any cemeteries with burials in the ground. The reason is that the water table in these areas is so high that many times you see fields with large areas where the water has risen to the surface.
The path crosses many little streams. This one was just prior to a hill...
Soon we were at the top of the hill and just as we began to go down we could hear the rumble of water. We looked down into the valley and saw this amazing river. It was so peaceful and calming.
After we had passed the rumble of this river we could hear the rumble of another just ahead of us. We descended into this little valley and came to this river.
The creek had some of the cleanest, clearest water that I have seen in years. Look at the bottom of the picture and you will see the rocks that were about three feet below the surface.
We went up another hill and paused to admire this bucolic scene with the cows grazing in the background. A short distance ahead we came to this very odd building with this picture and pilgrim's monument (note only shoes and walking stick). So, Vákner is apparently a beast that would attack pilgrims. Here is a website that explains the legend very well (https://www.letsteacheurope-erasmus.site/the-jacobean-legend-of-the-vakner/
We just had to chuckle because the empty shoes and absent pilgrim made us think that he had been eaten and that these were the only evidences of his existence! (ha, ha, ha). There is a detour that you can take through the forest below that is called the Camino del Vákner. I tried to convince Jannette to explore it but she (and I for that matter) were anxious to get to our hotel.
The Camino from Santiago that we have been walking splits into two directions: one goes to Fisterra and the other to Muxia. We went to the right towards Muxia, a city that sits on the coast.
We followed the road until it diverted into some woods. All along the path I kept telling Jannette that the Válker was going to jump out and eat her. She wasn't amused! We did come to another little stream with a small stone bridge. Again, the water was crystal clear.
We stayed on the spooky trail for another two miles or so.
Here is a odd thing that we noticed along the trail. Periodically we would come across these trinkets that were attached to a note that would say something like, "Hello, my name is Marta and I am 10 years old. I am raising money for school activities. Please buy one of these items..." Then there was a little can or bank sitting there where you could deposit your money. Very strange. I took a picture of one that had key chains with the Vólker hanging from it.
We love to see the flowers and ferns coming out. It is just so beautiful.
Deer Fern
Asphodelus Albus
Viper's Bugloss
Erica Umbellata
And of course, you gotta love the lambs. When I took this picture the shepherd was standing quietly off to the side at the gate watching his flock as the pastured. He was keeping them safe.
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