STAGE 25 - PONFERRADA to VILLAFRANCA DEL BIERZO

The day started out rainy and continued rainy off and on until we were about five miles out from Villafranca del Bierzo when it started to pour down on us. We moved very fast up and down the hills and through mud and water. Here are the things that we did and saw...

Heading out of Ponferrada we followed the Sil River.

This is the Iglesia de Santa María de Compostilla. It is a neo-Romanesque structure built in 1948. Its intent was to honor the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela. A little further down the path we came to Columbiranos and the Iglesia de San Esteban...

As we walked by we noticed that the doors were open so we stepped in. There we found a lady decorating the nave for Palm Sunday. When I asked the lady if I could take a picture she got a panicked look on her face and said, "Not of me!" I said "No" that I wanted to take a picture of the decorations. She then said, "Take all that you want." Her efforts were beautiful...

Jannette then asked if she could sing in the church. The lady said, "Of course." Jannette sang and when we said goodbye, the lady was in tears and expressed her deep appreciation. I love the moments when Jannette can use her talents to bless others.

We then found a cow! You will notice the huge bell. This is very common throughout northern Spain. The landscape then opens up with fields and vineyards...

We arrive in Cacabelos. It is a pleasant little town. We stopped by the Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Plaza. A very sweet lady greeted us. Inside the church were these "floats" that are usually carried on shoulders.

This is the Virgen de la Plaza

This is the float that is used for Palm Sunday representing the Triumphal Entry.

They even had mini versions for the children to carry. The funniest thing was when the lady who was cleaning the church told us that there was supposed to be a procession the day before, but because of the rain it was cancelled. The kids were so disappointed that it was planned for them to perform in the church. So, here were a group of kids with drums, ratta-tat-tat.

Leaving Cacabelos there is this "wine press" from the 18th-19th centuries.

As we continue towards Villafranca del Bierzo it starts to rain... but it doesn't detract from the beautiful vineyards and landscapes along the way.

Below is looking towards Villafranca del Bierzo through the cloudiness...

Shortly before entering the city proper you come to the Iglesia de Santiago. This lovely Romanesque church is known for its Puerta del Perdón (Door of Forgiveness). 

The Puerta del Perdón opens only during Años Jacobeos (Jacobean Years) when July 25 falls on a Sunday. This tradition, established around 1122, that popes Calixto III and Urbano II to provide a Jubilee blessing to pilgrims who, for reasons of health, were unable to reach Santiago de Compostela.

I want to focus some comments on the capitals located on the jambs to the left of the door. They offer a very interesting narrative for pilgrims approaching from the east along the Camino. Below are those capitals... I am going to begin with the capital furthest to the left and then jump to the capital furthest to the right.

When you approach the church from the east the first capital that you see is this one...

This frontal view ignores the view that pilgrims would have when approaching the door (as pointed out by Jannette), which is of the three Magi visiting King Herod (Matthew 2:1-10). Remember that Herod asks the Magi to go and find the Christ child and then let him know of his whereabouts.

Now, we jump to the capital on the first jamb closest to the doors...

Here we see (from right to left) the donkey and ox peeking around the column, then one king, followed by two more. They have brought their gifts. Notice that the king to the far left has his knee bent.

Coming around to the outer face of the capital you see Mary holding the Christ child with Joseph (to the left) in a posture commonly depicted of him with his hand on his cheek. This represents the "sleeping" Joseph when in a dream he is warned to take Mary and the child to Egypt (Matthew 2:13).

After the Magi visit the Holy Family, they are warned to not go back to Herod, so they return to their own countries (Matthew 2:12). On the second capital this moment is represented beautifully as we see the three kings in a row, covered with a blanket and asleep while an angel hovers over them to deliver the message from God.

On the next capital we see them astride their camels hurrying away from Herod.

The fourth capital depicts the Crucifixion...

To the right is John the Beloved. He is frequently represented with his hand on his cheek in a gesture of mourning. To the left are the three Marys: 1) Mary, the mother of Jesus (nearest him), Mary the Magdalene, and Mary Cleophas.

Finally we return to the capital we first considered by from the side of the story: perhaps a representation of the Kingdom of God.

The story suggests to the observer the consequences of obedience to divine intervention. The Magi listened to the voice of the angel and fled from Herod. Joseph listened to the voice of God and took Mary and the child to safety in Egypt. In the same way, if we listen to the voice of God we are saved through the death and resurrection of Christ; thereby being introduced into His kingdom. This is my take on this series of capitals that form part of the doorway name for forgiveness.

What I have just shown you happened on Saturday (April 12). Today is April 13, Palm Sunday. We were excited to see what would happen in a small town on this important beginning to Holy Week. 

The main event was the procession from the Iglesia de Santiago (discussed above) to the Colegiata de Santa María de Cluni.

This is the first time that we have been able to get into the Colegiata. Originally a monastery occupied this space that dated from 1110 when doña Urraca I de León donated monies to establish the Cluny order in the area. The monks were tasked with providing shelter and protection to pilgrims on the Camino. By the beginnings of the 15th century the monastery has fallen into disrepair. In 1529, with the support of don Pedro de Toledo (the viceroy of Naples), a the monastery was converted into a colegiata of Canons in the Renaissance style that evoked the grandeur of Roman basilicas. Here are interior shots of...

The Main Altar

The Choir

And the Trans-choir. I show you this Colegiata because the procession on Palm Sunday ends here.

While we were here prior to the events of Palm Sunday, Jannette went into the left nave and sang. It was beautiful. There was a pilgrim there who paused to listen. We spoke as she was leaving and expressed to me, with tears in her eyes, how beautiful Jannette's voice was, even the voice of an angel, and how much she appreciated her offering in music. This is what is all about. Love expressed through music.

PALM SUNDAY AND THE PROCESSION

This morning we went up to the Iglesia de Santiago in the hopes that we might see the interior. Fortunately, it was open and some men working there in preparation for the procession reluctantly let us in. It was a great experience but we were not allow to take any photos. On the way back down we saw a mother and her little boy walking up with olive branches in hand. I paused and asked the little, bow-tie- clad boy if he was excited for today to which he responded "Sí." His mother smiled and they both moved up the hill to the church where their branches would be blessed. Later, while we were standing in the Colegiata before the mass began, that same mother walked past us, turned to us, waved, and smiled. A very nice moment.

We stood around a long time before the procession finally reached us in the Plaza Mayor.

The procession was led by three individuals carrying staffs with crosses on top. Behind them came people carrying branches, walking in two parallel rows. Behind them and moving between the rows was a "float" with a representation of Christ riding on an donkey...

(on each side of the Cross of Saint James are the words "Ecce Homo" meaning "Behold the Man.")

People soon rushed to get a seat in the church. We followed and stood off to the side. It was very touching to see the devout coming in with their branches in hand. We are grateful to have had this experience.

Today would not be complete if I didn't show you a bridge...

This is the medieval bridge of Villafranca del Bierzo, also known as "Pons-Ferrata" was built in the 11th century by Bishop Osmundo. It made it possible for pilgrims to cross the wide river on their way to Santiago de Compostela. 

To see the third arch to the right you have to take it through a back yard. This shows how much the river has narrowed and widened over the centuries.