STAGE 26 - VILLAFRANCA DEL BIERZO to O CEBREIRO

Today was a rough 18 mile trek uphill, especially the last five miles (more or less). Despite the length and difficulty, the views and landscape were amazing. Here is what we did today...

This is the view from the "Pons Ferrata" that takes pilgrims across the Burbia River.

Having crossed the bridge, we start our ascent. At first the climb is mild. What you see in the distance is Villafranca del Bierzo where we spent the night.

Much of the path is paved or compacted gravel. The landscape is pleasant with the sounds of birds all along the way.

In Trabadelo there is this little house along the Camino that has this very spooky doll situated in the upstairs window, waving at pilgrims as they pass by. It is a little disquieting to look over and see this doll. It kind of reminds me of a horror picture.

This bridge covers the Rego de Valdelobos and feeds into the Valcarce River, which we will follow for the next several miles.

There are those choice moments of pastoral peace...

The climb up gets steeper at about the 13 mile mark. I used a technique that a friend, John Rosenberg, taught me: take 100 steps, stop, and stretch, repeat.

Finally, the path moves through a little town, Faba, and on to some flatter spaces.... If you remember, I showed you hills covered in Spanish heath that turned them purple. Well, we came across it again, but this time richer and denser...

We continued uphill from this point until we reached a spot where we had a magnificent view of the valleys below...

Photo above: you can see the trail that we hiked to the left (you can see some small buildings and a thin line of bushes marking the trail). Near the top you cross out of Castilla-León and into Galicia...

Finally, we reach the top. Of course, it had been raining on and off, but not heavily. It was mostly sprinkles but enough that we put our ponchos one to stay as dry as possible.  Below is the final stretch to the town...

And we are in O Cebreiro!

There is a 9th century church, the Iglesia de Santa María la Real. 

(picture from previous trip)

In the presbytery or main altar is a cross that dates from the 11th century.

In a small chapel to the left of the main altar is where don Elías Valiña is buried. He is responsible for promoting the Camino de Santiago and initiating the practice of placing yellow arrow markers along the way.

In the right nave is a statue of Santa María la Real...

And in the chapel to the right of the main altar are the chalice and paten, a silver platter on which the host is placed. The statue and these relics have a story...

Here is the story: The miracle of the Holy Grail of O Cebreiro dates back to the early 14th century. The story tells of how one snowy, cold winter evening, Juan Santín, from the nearby village of Barxamaior, braved an especially violent snow storm to travel the three kilometers that separated his home from the church to attend Mass. Because of the weather the priest thought it unlikely that anyone would attempt to attend mass. So, it was to his astonishment when the devout parishioner arrived at the church to receive the emblems of Christ’s body and blood. When the priest saw him come in he mocked him for putting his life in jeopardy to simply kneel before a bit of bread and wine. The priest continued the mass and arrived at that most sacred moment of consecration when it is believed that the host is transformed into flesh and the wine into blood of Christ.  At that same moment, the image of the Virgin, placed at the side of the main altar, bowed its head to adore the body and blood of Christ. Since then, the chalice, paten, and relics of the miracle have been kept in O Cebreiro. The priest and Juan Santín are buried side by side in two arches next to the altar of the miracle. 

This story spread throughout medieval Europe among the clergy, minstrels, and pilgrims. The miracle was also known by the Catholic Monarchs, on their pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela, in 1486, and they donated the reliquary, along with the chalice and paten, which are still on display in the Iglesia de O Cebreiro. The chalice and the host appear on the coat of arms of Galicia. Popular tradition tells that Queen Isabella wanted to take the relics from O Cebreiro with her. The royal procession departed for Castile, and a few kilometers further on, the horses stopped, making it impossible to continue. Fear gripped the procession, and they released the horses, which returned to the doors of the Church of Santa María de O Cebreiro. Seeing this, Queen Isabella then ordered that the relics remain in O Cebreiro.

If you look at the statue of the Virgin (pictured above) you will see that to this day her head bows in reverence.

More tomorrow...