STAGE 8 - NáJERA to SANTO DOMINGO DE LA CALZADA

The walk into Santo Domingo de la Calzada from Nájera was uneventful. We walked through some beautiful landscape. Here is what we saw...

The snowcapped mountains in the distance were beautiful especially with the clouds hovering over the peaks.

This view is looking behind us at the path we just walked.

Santo Domingo de la Calzada in the distance.

We have come across fields and fields of what looks like a weed. I stopped a farmer and asked what it is. He said that it is "colza" or Rapeseed from which they derive a cooking oil He said that soon the fields will be blooming with beautiful yellow flowers.

Just as you begin the descent towards Santo Domingo de la Calzada is this memorial to the Saint. Saint Dominic was born in 1019 in the small village of Viloria de Rioja. Though he hoped to become a monk at either San Millán de la Cogolla or Valvanera, he could not gain admittance. In response he dedicated his life to building bridges (reflected in the monument) that provided passage over the many rivers along the path and establishing a hospital for caring for pilgrims. Initially he built a small church/ermita in an area that was known for bandits. Now, you must imagine all these broad fields as having mostly wooded areas. Soon a town began to build up around the ermita. Initially the town was called Masburguete or Margubete. Eventually the name was changed to honor the saint. During the final years of his life he began construction on his own tomb. He insisted that it be built on the Camino since he say pilgrims as his people. The early tomb was used to store grains that pilgrims could use. Eventually, the Cathedral was built to envelope the tomb. If you visit the cathedral you can imagine the Camino's trajectory.

The space above between the arches is where the trail would have passed and inside it would have passed through the right transept of the cathedral where the saint's tomb sits today.

IGLESIA DEL SALVADOR later renamed CATEDRAL DE SANTO DOMINGO DE LA CALZADA

Now, the saint's tomb. Instead of a tomb it is more correctly a cenotaph (representation of the individual) was built in three stages. The initial phase was the image of the saint that dates from 12th century...

(The polychrome on the efigie is original to the 12th century)

The base of the cenotaph dates from 1450. Around this base are twelve representations of miracles performed by the saint...

1) The saint being beaten by assailants and surviving. 

2) The saint is building a bridge when a portion collapses and crushes a young man. The saint appears and heals the young man who was also in need of forgiveness for his behavior.

(3)

(4)

(5)

Panels 3, 4, and 5 deal with the saint's intervention on behalf of others to provide for their needs.

6) This is the miracle of the young man who was lying alongside the road when a cart swerved and crushed him. The saint went to him and, taking him by the hand, brought him back to life.

7) unknown. Will do more research.

8) Unknown. Will do more research

9) Miracle of the Young Man Hung and of the Chickens that came back to life. Here is the story:

Legend tells of a German Pilgrim called Hugonell who was walking to Santiago with his parents, when they decided to rest at an inn in Santo Domingo de la Calzada. The owner of the inn’s daughter immediately fell in love with him; however her feelings were not reciprocated, so the girl, angered, placed a sil ver cup into his luggage and accused the boy of theft. Thieves at that time were punished by hanging, and this was the fate of Hugonell. His parents, saddened by his death continued the pilgrimage, and upon arriving in Santiago de Compostela, began their return journey to visit the grave of their dead son. When they arrived in Santo Domingo however, they found their son still hanging in the gallows but, miraculously alive. Hugonell, excited, said to them: “Santo Domingo brought me back to life, please go to the Mayor’s house and ask him to take me clown”. Quickly, the parents arrived at the Mayor’s house and told him of the miracle. The incredulous Mayor, who was preparing to have dinner with friends, responded: “That boy is as alive as these two roast chickens we are about to eat,” and suddenly, the chickens came to life, sprouted feathers and beaks and began to crow, and so, to this day there is a saying about the town which goes: “Santo Domingo of the Way… where the hen crowed after being roasted.”

When you visit the cathedral there is a chicken coup built into an elaborate structure with two chickens in it! Another part of the legend is that these chickens are direct descendants of those that were brought back to life. And here they are...

Here a piece of an altarpiece that represents the legend of the hung man.

10) The saint being beaten by evil men...

11) Unknown. More research needed.

So, #10 depicts the saint being beaten by evil men. Well, the man who was beating him later gets into a argument and fight with another man. During the course of the fighting the evil man has his hand cut off. According to the miracle (depicted in panel #12), a dog retrieves the evil man's hand and carries it to the saint as proof of God's punishment.

The remaining parts of the cenotaph was constructed in 1513. It is a beautiful carved piece from alabaster. High above the head of the cenotaph are slaves chains. Saint Dominic is known for having interceded on behalf of slaves and provided for their care, especially those returning from the Crusades in Jerusalem.

Full view of the cenotaph

Churches and cathedrals were constructed as "books" to be read. This was particularly important given that the vast majority of Christians could neither read nor write; but they knew the stories. In the girola (the part at the end of the cathedral behind what would be the main altar) are several of these stories from the 12th-century construction. Here are a few of them...

THE PARABLE OF THE 10 VIRGINS

Five are wise and have their candles lit.

And, five were unwise and had not filled their lamps. You see them here lamenting their situation when denied entrance into the presence of the Master.

The Miracle of Drawing the Fishes from the Sea

Peter leaving the ship to walk on water to meet Christ.

The capitals on the columns also provide important instruction...

Daniel in the Lion's Den

The Betrayal by Judas and the Arrest of Christ. You see the soldiers with their swords to the right. Next are St. John, then Christ, and tucked into the corner is St. James. Notice that the Savior's stare is over to the capital opposite him where Judas walks shamefully away from the scene.

Christ in Majesty (found inside of a mandorla [the almond-shaped circle] as he stands at the gate of Heaven.

The Visit of the Magi

Tomorrow we head for Belorado.