STAGE 11. - ATAPUERCA to BURGOS

 Today was a short haul of about 15 miles. The way was fairly flat. We did have some rain, but it was light. Here is what we saw...

Lovely Iglesia de San Martín Obispo (15th century). We have noticed along the way that many of these churches are experiencing a revitalization with work being done on the buildings and landscaping to make the churches more accessible. The town of Atapuerca is associated with some prehistoric digs nearby. It is believed that the name of the town (that dates from the 10th century) was adtaporka that refers to the presence of wild boars in the area.

Leaving Atapuerca you begin to climb a nearby mountain. The climb is not difficult but the trail is plagued with rocky outcroppings.

Jannette maneuvering the most difficult part of the trail.

Near the top of the mountain, called Matagrande, is this cross. Like many similar sites along the trail people pause here to consider loved ones and leave tokens.

At the top of Matagrande is this spot with benches to pause and consider the view. The sign reads, "...since pilgrims dominated the Burguete mountains of Navarra and considered the Spain's expansive landscape, no one has enjoyed a view as beautiful as this one" (from Las Peregrinaciones Jacobeas by Luciano Huidobro, pag. 106, tomo II).

...and this is the view with Burgos in the distance.

Not far from Burgos is Orbaneja Río Pico. This is the Iglesia de San Millán Abad (16th century). It is another the churches we have seen in the process of restoration and improved access.

This is the Ermita de la Inmaculada (16th century)

This is the Iglesia de Santa María la Real y Antigua in Gamonal. Note that in 2024 this church celebrated its 950 anniversary with the original foundations laid in 1074. We have stopped at this church before. It has a lovely interior...

And, of course Jannette cannot help taking a moment to sing a hymn in a sacred space. Well, we saw a man up near the altar and then disappear. Janette thought it safe to sing since no one was around. We don't like to bother people who may be in the church praying. Jannette sang "Jesus, the Very Thought of Thee." The sound that she produced was celestial. These stone churches have a resonance that produces remarkable sounds. Then, from the transept, appeared the same gentleman we had seen earlier. He turned to Jannette and said, "I was in there (a small office) and thought that I heard the voice of an angel." He invited us to his office to give us a stamp for our pilgrim's passport. It turns out that he is the church's priest. He sat us down and we chatted. He asked if we were Catholic. We said, No. He asked if we were Christians. We said, Yes. We told him that we had friends in Santo Domingo de Silos, padres Angel and Bernardo. When we mentioned padre Angel he commented on what a wonderful person he is. Then when we mentioned padre Bernardo, he gasped slightly and expressed his deep admiration for the 90+ year old monk. We talked about the importance of loving and caring for people; treating them as humans who deserve the love of God. As we were standing to leave I extended my hand towards him. He said, "No, I want to give you a hug. Please carry this to Santiago de Compostela where you can hug the image of the Saint for me." This was a very touching moment. It is one of those experiences that gives me hope that not all is falling apart in the world. There are still people who believe in God, who strive towards being good, and who love others as God would.