STAGE 10 - BELORADO to ATAPUERCA

In the past, this stage has been from Belorado to San Juan de Ortega, a hike of around 15 miles which was really doable. Sadly, none of the hostels/hotels in San Juan de Ortega were open (I mean maybe the three in the whole town!) So, we had to go a further down the road. We could have stayed in Agés just three miles further, but again nothing was available. Our travel agent (Elena) found us a place in Atapuerca making the total walking day 19.5 miles. It probably wouldn't have been a big deal but we had rain, mud, huge puddles to get around and an uphill climb over the Montes de Oca. Despite all of what appears to be negative, it was a good day for discovering and learning.

Beginning with Belorado. We have stayed in the same hotel three times and are friends with the owner, Joaquin. He is one of the most delightful people you might meet. He is very attentive and plays a mean harmonica.

We left Belorado crossing a beautiful bridge and then off into the countryside (in a light rain)...

We hit a lot of muddy spots along the trail...

At the town you see in the distance (Villafranca Montes de Oca) we will begin a ascent... And, it will start to rain harder and the mud will get deeper...

In the Montes de Oca is a very somber site... Spain went through a bloody civil war that lasted from 1936 to 1939. Millions of people died either as the result of fighting or as the victims of mass assassinations by the Nationalists (Fascists / Conservative / Right-Wing / Catholic / Falangists) headed up by Francisco Franco. It was not uncommon that a person might be accused by a neighbor or official of being a Communist or suspected of sympathies with the Communists or one of those being defined as an "undesirable" (e.g., homosexuals, gypsies, non-Catholics). Many were sent to prison with life sentences. Others were hauled away in what was called a "paseo" to remote areas, forced to dig their own common grave, and were summarily shot and buried. For decades the sites were left ignored because of a statute that forbade anyone to speak of the events of the war (called the "Pact of Silence"). At the turn of the 21st century the pact was repealed and people began to speak of the unspeakable. I tell you all this because near the apex of the mountains are two sites where more than 400 bodies were excavated and reburied. At the site where three hundred bodies were found there is a monument. A few yards away is a fenced in area where 104 bodies were buried. There are still many, many common graves that are lost.

Often at these sites there is a reminder that too often people and nations forget their history and are condemned to repeat the past.

more mud...

Sadly, we were not able to visit one of our favorite churches along this leg of the Camino. It is the Iglesia de San Juan de Ortega. Sadly, it was not open, but I want you to be acquainted with this church and the gem that is inside. These pictures are from previous visits to San Juan de Ortega. The church...

The church is a beautiful 12th century construction with a triple apse and Latin cross nave and transept. There are many unique architectural features that include these layered archivolts in the windows that give a sense of depth and increased light to the apse.

 

However, the crown jewel is a capital located in the left apse that tells tells the story of the Annunciation, the Visitation....  You can see in the Annunciation that Mary holds her hands up as if to receive the Holy Ghost. This is an act of humility. Interesting, high on the back wall is a small hole. During the solstice a beam of light shines through the hole and illuminates Mary's womb. Indeed, a dramatic scene for onlookers. The next scene is the Visitation when Mary greets Elizabeth, the mother of John the Baptist. At the corner is Joseph. Remember that Joseph was concerned about Mary's situation and had thought to "put her away" until an angel came to assure him that the child she was carrying was holy; comforting him in his dilema. Note how the angel coddles Joseph's sleeping figure lending comfort to him.

and the Nativity (on the back side is a scene from the moment with the angels appear to the shepherds, but there wasn't enough light to get a good shot.

The Nativity scene reflects a sleeping, tranquil Mary. Above her is the Christ child in a manger with an ass and an ox hovering over him. Above and to the side are three vessels that many believe represent the three magi and their gifts. At Mary's head is the midwife, coddling her head (note that her eyes also appear to be closed) and caring for her needs. The scene, with its four "sleeping" figures (Joseph, Mary, Christ, and the midwife) project a feeling of peace, harmony, and reverence. 

Finally, I talked earlier about Santo Domingo de la Calzada. This saint and San Juan de Ortega were contemporaries and the later worked closely with the former in building bridges throughout the area. Just outside of Agés is a small, unassuming bridge that is believed to be the work of San Juan de Ortega. I love this little bridge. It just sits near a busy road, over a small stream. It is a reminder that though time passes, it remains in its place, serving the purpose for which it was built to provide pilgrims with passage along the Camino. Like each of us, it has its place and purpose.